Houston, with its frenetic pace, vast wealth, and top-notch art scene, epitomizes the "bigger is better" frontier spirit that has driven Texas to achieve worldwide prominence. Its once deserved reputation as a swampy cowtown with an unbearable summer climate changed in the 1930s with the introduction of air conditioning, and the population skyrocketed. Today, partly as a result of that boom, Houston struggles with traffic and pollution, but don't let that drive you away, as people come here for a reason.

Houston began life as a small town founded by a couple of shipping merchants in 1836. The development of the statewide oil industry, for which Houston was the main export point, showered wealth on the city, and growth was consistently high for many years. The oil crisis in the 1970s hit Houston hard, and after a period of readjustment, the economy diversified into areas such as high-tech industries and medical services, once again turning Houston into an economic powerhouse.

Far from a monument to pure capitalism, Houston is a city blessed with fine museums. The Houston Museum of Fine Arts, housed in a magnificent building designed by German architect Mies van der Rohe, is one of the largest and most complete in the United States. Another great option is the Houston Museum of Natural Science, where the Cockrell Butterfly Center, a three-story dome filled with thousands of butterflies, is a top draw.

Not surprisingly, Houston is a place where people take their shopping and spending rather seriously. A huge collection of stores and outlets of all kinds, the Galleria is Houston's principle shopping spot. Fans of antiques should head to the area around Woodhead and Westheimer, where there is a concentration of stores specializing in the rare and mysterious.